At a recent high school fundraiser, I had the misfortune to sample a gluten-free brownie that was mushy, gummy, starchy, and too dang sweet; probably came from a box with the usual xanthan or guar gum. And I donated a buck for this?
Well, this shall not stand, thought I. Therefore it was off to the lab to develop a suitable GF brownie that would be a pleasure to eat, be nutritious, and notably lack the exotic GRAS gunk that the big food processors think is okay to sneak into as food.
And so below:
The Best Gluten-Free Brownies in the Known Universe
Makes: 24 or 30 plump, chocolatey brownies.
Prep Time: I don't really know, actually
Recommended equipment:
- Stand mixer with at least 5 qt.-capacity bowl.
- Accurate kitchen scale measuring in grams units
- Jellyroll pan, 15"x10"x1", nonstick if available
- Baker’s parchment, 15" wide
- Baking stone at least as large as jellyroll pan
- Household grain mill, e.g. the L’EQUIP NutriMill
- The usual bowls, measuring spoons & cups, scrapers etc.
- Still-air oven—verify that the oven temperature setting is accurate.
Ingredient Notes:
· Weight measures are preferable to volume measures, and will give more consistent results.
· The rice flour
recommended is finely milled from Tamaki Haiga germ-retained white rice, a
good-tasting and extraordinarily nutritious rice. In the L’EQUIP NutriMill, set
the mill to highest speed and lowest feed rate.
· The cooked-rice flour is the same Haiga rice: parboil as typical, pressure-cook at 1.2bar for 20 minutes. Wrap and cool slowly overnight, dry in an oven or food dryer at 160ºF or 71C until quite dry, then mill finely as above.
· The flax
hydrocolloid is a dry powdered extract of hulled, defatted non-GMO flaxseed; it is actually food, and replaces the weird
and exotic xanthan and guar gums found in 99% of mainstream GF flour replacers. A sample
of Optisol 5300 may be ordered from Glanbia Nutritionals. Possibly finely-ground
flax seed could be substituted, but with no guarantees of a successful bake or
good taste.
· The rice bran
extract is Nu-Bake, used for its properties in enhancing texture and moisture
in typical GF formulas. A sample may be ordered from RIBUS Inc. of St. Louis,
Missouri. Its use is optional.
· The potato and
tapioca starches can be of the Bob’s Red Mill brand.
· The baking powder
is any nontoxic (aluminum-free) double-acting type, such as Red Star or
Rumford.
Prep: Mill uncooked and cooked/dried rices as described above. Place
baking stone in cold oven, preheat to 320ºF or 160C. Prepare pan by buttering,
overlaying with parchment, then buttering the parchment. Squeeze out any air
“blisters” trapped under the parchment; set aside.
Process:
Ingredient grams U.S. volume measure
Butter, Unsalted Irish 190 ½ cup + 5 Tbs + 1 tsp
Butter, Unsalted Irish 190 ½ cup + 5 Tbs + 1 tsp
Olive
Oil, extra light 23 1½ tsp
Sugar,
Superfine Granular 500 2½ cup + 1 Tbs
Cocoa
Powder 118 1 cup + 3 Tbs
· Melt butter and
oil in a stainless saucepan over medium-low heat. Add sugar, and whisk
occasionally until sugar has melted, and mixture becomes uniform, light and cohesive; whisk continually until it becomes frothy and light. Pour cocoa into mixer bowl. Remove melt from heat, pour over cocoa,
and stir with paddle attachment until mixture is just warm; scrape
bowl and beater as necessary. Meanwhile measure & sift together the drys listed
below.
Ingredient grams U.S. volume measure
Vanilla Extract 7 2 tsp
Eggs,
Whole, medium 250 5 eggs
Vanilla Extract 7 2 tsp
· Restart mixer on
low speed, add vanilla, then eggs; then beat at medium speed with scraping
until smooth and glossy.
Ingredient grams U.S. volume measure
Flour,
White Rice 63 7 Tbs + 2 tsp (½ cup less 1
tsp)
Starch,
Potato 54 6 Tbs
Starch,
Tapioca 49 7 Tbs + 2 tsp (½ cup less 1
tsp)
Flour,
cooked & dried rice 19 2 Tbs
*Flax
Hydrocolloid, Dry 9.5 4 tsp
Baking
Soda 3.8 ¾ tsp
· Sift together the
above drys. Add drys to pre-batter and beat a full seven minutes
at medium-high speed until thick and smooth. Scrape down bowl sides and beater as
necessary to ensure uniformity of mix.
* Alternate: try 2 Tbs. golden flax meal instead of the Glanbia Optisol 5300 flaxseed extract.
** Update: given the very real concerns about trace heavy metals such a cadmium present in rice bran, this ingredient is no longer recommended. The manufacturer of this particular extract, Nu-BAKE®, has failed to respond to a product analysis request.
* Alternate: try 2 Tbs. golden flax meal instead of the Glanbia Optisol 5300 flaxseed extract.
** Update: given the very real concerns about trace heavy metals such a cadmium present in rice bran, this ingredient is no longer recommended. The manufacturer of this particular extract, Nu-BAKE®, has failed to respond to a product analysis request.
Ingredient grams U.S. volume measure
Baking Powder 7.7 1¾ tsp (Aluminum-free)
Sea
Salt, Fine 5.0 1 scant tsp
· Stir together baking powder and salt. Stop the mixer, scatter the powder-salt mix uniformly over
the batter surface, and beat an additional two minutes,
scraping bowl and beater as needed.
Ingredient grams U.S. volume measure
Milk Chocolate Chips 100 ½ cup
· Stop mixer, dump in chocolate
chips, and stir batter at low speed until uniformly well-incorporated. Scrape bowl once or twice for uniformity.
Turn
batter into pan and smoothen it until uniformly level. Set pan on hot baking
stone in oven and bake at 320ºF or 160C for 36 minutes. If using a
different-sized pan, baking time may have to be adjusted. Test with toothpick:
the brownies are done when the toothpick comes out with just a bit of moist
cake sticking to the very tip; a clean toothpick means they’re getting overdone
and crunchy.
Cool pan on wire rack for an entire hour. Cut downward with a
soft-bladed cheese knife into 24 rectangles in a 4 or 5 x 6 array. Gently slide parchment out of pan, and separate squares for placement onto serving tray or storage tin.
So there you have it. These brownies are consistently well-liked, appreciated by the GF crowd, and are profitable at bake sales. They are long gone by the time the usual cupcakes and store-bought stale cookies are left behind in their lonely embarrassment.
The corresponding video for this preparation may be found at:
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